Over a century after its creation, the Burberry trench is still the most famous – and sought-after – coat of all time. We explore how this quintessentially British cover-up became an icon of timeless style.
A Very Short History of the Burberry Trench
What makes a piece of fashion iconic? Some might say it’s when a designer is able to combine beauty and practicality – necessity even – to create something truly groundbreaking, from Chanel’s innovatively wearable tweed suit to the capacious Hermès Birkin. Another example? The Burberry trench, arguably the most famous coat of all time, and as coveted now as it was over a century ago.
The history of the Burberry trench is a fascinating one, steeped in adventure, artistry and quintessentially British craftsmanship. Until the late 1800s, waterproof macs were made of rubberised cotton – a heavy, uncomfortable fabric that would cause the wearer to sweat profusely.
But when Thomas Burberry invented a textile named gaberdine in 1879, everything changed. The process involved waterproofing individual strands of cotton and wool fibre to create a lightweight yet hard-wearing material with a moisture-wicking effect, designed to repel the elements and withstand the most unpredictable of British weather.
This revolutionary textile became a hit with adventurers, accompanying explorers to Mount Everest and the South Pole, and later outfitting soldiers on the battlefields of World War I. Having been asked by the British army to create a coat suitable for military wear, Burberry turned to an existing design popular among officers in the Boer War, updating it with D-rings to carry flasks, maps and grenades, flaps for extra chest protection and epaulettes to display rank. The trench coat was born.
With its connotations of patriotism and prestige, the Burberry trench became a status symbol among well-heeled civilians, while officers continued to wear their coats after the war (and later, into WWII). By 1934, it had become so popular that Burberry was even offering same-day delivery in London.
As the years went on, Hollywood fell in love with the trench coat too, with iterations appearing during some of cinema’s most iconic moments, from Breakfast at Tiffany’s kissing-in-the-rain scene, to the denouement of Casablanca, when Humphrey Bogart utters his famous line, "Here’s looking at you, kid" while wearing a trench. (A Burberry coat – worn by Bogart for the film’s publicity photos – sold for over $10k at auction in 2005). By 1965, one in five coats exported from Britain was a Burberry, lined in the brand’s unmistakable (and inimitable) check. It’s hard to think of another item of fashion that evokes both glamour and utilitarianism at exactly the same time.
Equally unique is the fact that, over the course of a century, the brand’s iconic design remains virtually unchanged, the signature beige cotton-gabardine still a core part of its DNA. Meticulously crafted in Burberry’s Yorkshire factory, each coat comprises 80 pieces and takes 120 separate processes over four hours to stitch. The collar alone involves eight pieces of cloth and more than 180 hand-sewn stitches to create a curve that perfectly contours the neck – a method that takes a year for each tailor to master. Every season, the brand reprises its heritage styles – the Kensington, Chelsea, Waterloo and Camden, each with a slightly different silhouette and length.
While its core components remain largely unchanged, each of the brand’s creative directors has brought their own spin to the trench, whether embellished with studded sleeves by Christopher Bailey in 2011 or reimagined in a new floor-skimming length by Ricardo Tisci in 2020. It was with a trench coat that Burberry’s current creative director, Daniel Lee, unveiled his debut collection in February 2023, a darker and slouchier interpretation of the classic style trimmed with faux-fur lapels.
The beauty of the Burberry trench and the secret, perhaps, to its enduring appeal, lies in its unique versatility. It’s timeless and ageless, a stylistic blank canvas, designed to be worn day and night, work and weekend, layered over a cocktail dress or dressed down with denim. It’s royalty-approved (beloved of both the Princess of Wales and the Duchess of Sussex), a cool-girl favourite (see Bella Hadid, who paired hers with Dr. Martens), and looks effortlessly stylish at every stage of life. The ultimate wardrobe investment? We think so.
Kensington
Classically elegant, the Kensington is cut to a regular fit and features the signature trench coat details and Burberry Check lining. It’s available in three sizes, short, mid-length and long, and also comes in cashmere for a luxurious, cold-weather option.
Chelsea
With a slim fit (so size up if you want a more relaxed shape), the Chelsea is cut close to the body and designed to cinch at the waist, creating a feminine silhouette. Available in three lengths and three colours: honey, black and coal blue.
Waterloo
The Waterloo is the closest to the military-inspired original style. It fits true to size, so take your regular size, and features raglan sleeves and the Burberry Check lining. Available in three colours: honey, black and coal blue.
Camden
Understatedly elegant, the Camden features a pared-back and modern design with single-breasted buttons and no epaulets or belt. Cut to a regular fit, it’s available in honey, black and coal blue.
From the classic heritage collection to standout styles with bold details, discover our full edit of Burberry trench coats here
